It Takes Two To Tango: Cousins Who Redefined Heritage Conservation in Ladakh

Choskor House: A Journey of Heritage Revival in Ladakh

Leh, Ladakh: In 2017, Choskor House in the Old Town of Leh was just another rundown building, barely standing the test of time. Fast-forward seven years, and the house has undergone a remarkable transformation into a living testament of Ladakh’s rich artistic and architectural heritage. This remarkable shift is thanks to Shesrig Ladakh, an initiative founded by cousins Noor Jahan and Wajeeda, both conservationists driven by passion and expertise.

“We both pursued conservation studies together, and after completing our master’s degrees, we worked on several projects in Ladakh and beyond. But we always felt an urge to start something of our own, recognizing the potential for conservation work in Ladakh,” says Noor, who now serves as the Director of Shesrig Ladakh. Over the years, she has been deeply involved in conservation projects focused on traditional artworks, including wall paintings and thangkas.

The name "Shesrig" means "culture" in Ladakhi, and the organization operates year-round with a predominantly local team. The cousins’ commitment to preserving Ladakh’s material heritage has brought significant awareness to the importance of conservation in the region. Monasteries, villages, local authorities, and caretakers are increasingly recognizing the value of protecting the area’s artistic treasures, thanks in part to the tireless efforts of groups like the Himalayan Cultural Heritage Foundation (HCHF) and Achi Association India.

The Accidental Beginnings of a Conservation Journey

Noor’s journey into art conservation began by sheer chance. “I stumbled upon a team of European conservators working on wall paintings in Ladakh. At the time, I didn’t even know that art conservation was a profession," Noor recalls. The meticulous work of these experts left a lasting impression on her. “It was a revelation to see people dedicated to preserving something so intrinsic to our culture and identity.”

From that moment, Noor was hooked. She began her conservation journey in 2012, starting with an internship at Disket Monastery under the Himalayan Cultural Heritage Foundation. The experience opened her eyes to the critical need for preserving Ladakh’s cultural assets.

The Revival of Choskor House

The story of Choskor House is a testament to the cousins’ vision. When Noor and Wajeeda first saw the crumbling structure, they were captivated by its charm and historical significance. Despite its state of decay, the house was the perfect embodiment of the values they wanted to promote through Shesrig Ladakh—preserving and reviving Ladakh's artistic and architectural heritage. “Restoring Choskor House became the very foundation of our work,” Noor shares.

The restoration of the house not only provided a base for their conservation efforts but also symbolized their broader mission. The building became a space where the cousins could practice what they preached, integrating their philosophy of conservation into every corner of the house.

Empowering the Local Community

A central part of Shesrig Ladakh’s mission is involving the local community in the conservation process. The organization prioritizes training and empowering locals to become skilled conservators. “The shift in people’s attitude towards heritage preservation has been remarkable,” says Noor. Over time, Shesrig Ladakh has expanded its team to include five women conservators, a traditional thangka artist, and an in-house photographer. This growth has strengthened their ability to take on larger projects while creating sustainable job opportunities for the community.

The involvement of skilled locals ensures that conservation practices remain authentic and are passed down to future generations. It also helps in fostering a strong, local conservation community, which is one of the key goals of Shesrig Ladakh.

A Shared Responsibility for Heritage

Noor’s personal connection to the world of craft and art has undoubtedly influenced her approach to conservation. Growing up, her father, a traditional jeweler, taught her the delicate art of gold-thread work for amulets. This early exposure to meticulous craftsmanship laid the groundwork for her later work as a conservator. “Art conservation felt like a natural extension of my childhood experiences,” she explains.

For Noor, cultural heritage is not about religious boundaries. She believes that preserving Ladakh’s artistic legacy is a collective responsibility that transcends all identities. “Rather than categorizing artifacts based on religion, I view them as part of Ladakh’s collective identity,” she asserts. This holistic approach to conservation ensures that the region’s treasures—regardless of their origin—are preserved for future generations.

The Importance of Thangkas and Other Artworks

Among the most cherished pieces of Ladakhi heritage are thangkas—intricately painted scrolls depicting religious scenes, deities, and spiritual teachings. These artworks are not just beautiful; they hold deep historical, spiritual, and artistic significance. Made using traditional materials and techniques, many thangkas are centuries old and are now in danger of deteriorating.

Without proper conservation, these works of art, which carry the cultural and spiritual narratives of the region, could be lost forever. Noor emphasizes, “Conserving these delicate paintings is crucial, not just for religious reasons but for preserving the cultural identity of Ladakh.”

A Challenging Conservation Experience

Noor recalls one of her most challenging projects—the conservation of 14th-century wall paintings at Chomo Phu, a remote site in a gorge near Disket Monastery. The team worked in complete isolation for 22 days, camping in the gorge with no facilities. “The environment was raw and challenging, but it only added to the intensity and beauty of the experience,” she says, reflecting on the project that took place during the COVID-19 lockdown.

Future Ambitions

Shesrig Ladakh, which began as a small initiative, now has big plans for the future. Noor and Wajeeda aim to establish a professional conservation facility in Ladakh, one that would be the first of its kind in India. This facility would not only offer specialized tools and training for conservators but also serve as a research and educational hub, fostering a community of conservation professionals in the region.

“The ultimate goal is to extend the lifespan of these artworks so future generations can appreciate and study them,” Noor says. The team plans to collaborate with experts from various fields, including conservationists, traditional artists, architects, archaeologists, and material scientists, to build a comprehensive conservation facility.

While Ladakh’s conservation scene has been active for over 25 years with the efforts of organizations like Achi Association India, Tibet Heritage Fund, and NIRLAC, the work of Shesrig Ladakh continues to bring a new level of awareness and engagement to the preservation of the region’s invaluable heritage.

By combining passion, expertise, and a deep respect for the region’s traditions, Shesrig Ladakh is ensuring that the artistic treasures of Ladakh will be preserved for generations to come.